INTRODUCTION
The Tibetan name for Mount Everest is “Chomolangma” which means “Saint Mother”. It has been in common use by Tibetans for centuries (BEFORE 1733 A.D).
We all know that the height of Everest is 8848m. It was after the years and years of calculation and was announced by GREAT TRIGONOMETRIC SURVEY OF INDIA in 1856.
This peak was previously know as Peak XV to the western world. Then In 1865, Everest was given its official English name by Andrew wough. He was the British surveyor General of India. He recommended this name after his ancestor former chief, Sir George Everest. Andrew was send to Nepal by Sir George Everest for study of the peak.
Only in the early 1960s, the Nepalese government gave Mount Everest the official name “sagarmatha”.
CLIMBING ROUTES OF ASCENT
There are 15 recognized route for climbing Mt. Everest. But climbers use two main routes.
a. The southeast ridge from Nepal b. The northeast ridge from Tibet.
SOUTHEAST RIDGE CLIMBING ROUTE
This is the Nepal side route of ascent and was the first recognized route to the top. It was the same route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953.
First of all, climbers fly from Kathamandu to Luka then walk for 8-9 days to reach Base Camp at 5,334 m. During the trek, climbers allows plenty of time for acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness. Then Climbers spent some more days for acclimatization in base camp. During that time, Sherpa and climbers set up ropes and ladder in khumbu icefall. Khumbu icefall is most dangerous section of the route because of crevasses and changing block of ice. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section.
Little above the icefall is Camp I at 5,943m.
From Camp I, climbers make their way up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) which is established at 6,400 m.
The Western part is a flat, glacier valley, and number of crevasses are present in the centre which prevent direct access to the upper part of Everest. So, climbers need to pass by the base of Mount Nuptse.
As we can see in the picture, near the base of Nuptse, the Western Cwm is present there which is also called the "Valley of Silence" . The topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. So, the high altitude and a clear windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers.
From ABC, climbers ascent the Lhotse Face on fixed rope up to Camp III, located on a small edge at 7162m. From there, it is another 800 mtrs to camp IV at 8000m. From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers faces two challenges.
1. The Geneva Spur : It is the blocks of rock named by Swiss Expedition Team in 1952. Fixed ropes helps climbers to pass by this section.
2. The Yellow Band : It is a section of inter layered marble, phyllite and semi schist which requires about 100mtrs of rope to cross it.
After Camp IV, climbers then enter the death zone. Climbers generally have maximum 2-3 days that they can bear at this height. Clear weather and low winds are factors in deciding to make a summit attempt. If weather does not favor, climbers are forced to return back.
From Camp IV, climbers begins their summit push around midnight. They have only 10 to 12 hours for the making rest of the heights. Climbers first reach “THE BALCONY” at 8,400m, it is a small platform where they can rest and watch at peaks in the early light of dawn. While walking up the ridge, climbers faces series of striking rock steps.
Climbers then follow the knife-edge southeast ridge which is know as “CORNICE TRAVERSE”. This is the most exposed section of climb. If miss-step then the climbers falls about 2,400m down. At the end of CORNICE TRAVERSE at 8760 m, there is an 12m rock wall called “HILLARY STEP”.
After crossing the “HILLARY STEP”, it is a easy climb to the “top of the world”. After the summit, Climbers have to descent to Camp IV before darkness because afternoon weather becomes serious problem on the top and also supplement oxygen may run out. So, climber spent less than a half-hour on the “top of the world”.
By the end of the 2008, only 2700 have made the successful climbing out of 4,102 summit attempt. And Everest had claimed 216 lives.
The Tibetan name for Mount Everest is “Chomolangma” which means “Saint Mother”. It has been in common use by Tibetans for centuries (BEFORE 1733 A.D).
We all know that the height of Everest is 8848m. It was after the years and years of calculation and was announced by GREAT TRIGONOMETRIC SURVEY OF INDIA in 1856.
This peak was previously know as Peak XV to the western world. Then In 1865, Everest was given its official English name by Andrew wough. He was the British surveyor General of India. He recommended this name after his ancestor former chief, Sir George Everest. Andrew was send to Nepal by Sir George Everest for study of the peak.
Only in the early 1960s, the Nepalese government gave Mount Everest the official name “sagarmatha”.
There are 15 recognized route for climbing Mt. Everest. But climbers use two main routes.
a. The southeast ridge from Nepal b. The northeast ridge from Tibet.
SOUTHEAST RIDGE CLIMBING ROUTE
This is the Nepal side route of ascent and was the first recognized route to the top. It was the same route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953.
First of all, climbers fly from Kathamandu to Luka then walk for 8-9 days to reach Base Camp at 5,334 m. During the trek, climbers allows plenty of time for acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness. Then Climbers spent some more days for acclimatization in base camp. During that time, Sherpa and climbers set up ropes and ladder in khumbu icefall. Khumbu icefall is most dangerous section of the route because of crevasses and changing block of ice. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section.
Little above the icefall is Camp I at 5,943m.
From Camp I, climbers make their way up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) which is established at 6,400 m.
The Western part is a flat, glacier valley, and number of crevasses are present in the centre which prevent direct access to the upper part of Everest. So, climbers need to pass by the base of Mount Nuptse.
As we can see in the picture, near the base of Nuptse, the Western Cwm is present there which is also called the "Valley of Silence" . The topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. So, the high altitude and a clear windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers.
From ABC, climbers ascent the Lhotse Face on fixed rope up to Camp III, located on a small edge at 7162m. From there, it is another 800 mtrs to camp IV at 8000m. From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers faces two challenges.
1. The Geneva Spur : It is the blocks of rock named by Swiss Expedition Team in 1952. Fixed ropes helps climbers to pass by this section.
2. The Yellow Band : It is a section of inter layered marble, phyllite and semi schist which requires about 100mtrs of rope to cross it.
After Camp IV, climbers then enter the death zone. Climbers generally have maximum 2-3 days that they can bear at this height. Clear weather and low winds are factors in deciding to make a summit attempt. If weather does not favor, climbers are forced to return back.
From Camp IV, climbers begins their summit push around midnight. They have only 10 to 12 hours for the making rest of the heights. Climbers first reach “THE BALCONY” at 8,400m, it is a small platform where they can rest and watch at peaks in the early light of dawn. While walking up the ridge, climbers faces series of striking rock steps.
Climbers then follow the knife-edge southeast ridge which is know as “CORNICE TRAVERSE”. This is the most exposed section of climb. If miss-step then the climbers falls about 2,400m down. At the end of CORNICE TRAVERSE at 8760 m, there is an 12m rock wall called “HILLARY STEP”.
After crossing the “HILLARY STEP”, it is a easy climb to the “top of the world”. After the summit, Climbers have to descent to Camp IV before darkness because afternoon weather becomes serious problem on the top and also supplement oxygen may run out. So, climber spent less than a half-hour on the “top of the world”.
By the end of the 2008, only 2700 have made the successful climbing out of 4,102 summit attempt. And Everest had claimed 216 lives.
